Is this an ammonia-based dye? How does it differ from a classic brow tint? — Eyebrow and eyelash dye Black Chocolate 5g

This particular cream-paint is a henna-based tint, not a classic chemical dye. The product description states that it colours brows and lashes without ammonia or peroxide. Classic oxidative brow dyes rely on peroxide to open the hair cuticle and develop colour inside the hair; henna-based formulas work differently — they colour and coat the surface and, in this product, are combined with conditioning ingredients. If your skin has reacted to stronger tints before, this difference is one of the main reasons people choose a henna cream.

The formula contains a high amount of henna extract plus burdock oil, argan oil, wheat germ oil and cocoa butter, which help soften the hair surface so brows and lashes can look glossier and visually denser after colouring. It also includes arnica and lavender extracts and glycerin, which helps the texture stay less drying. The brand calls the smoothing result a “biolamination effect”: this is not the same as a salon lamination treatment, but a coating cosmetic effect that makes hairs look neater and more polished.

Because the product is not an oxidising dye, this particular shade — Bitter Chocolate — is designed to give a deep brown result rather than a harsh black finish. It can be a good option for someone who wants a softer, browner definition around the eyes. As with any eye-area tint, do a patch test before first use, wait if the eye area is irritated, and follow the timing instructions that come with the product.